Passes the 5 Foot Test

Since I was having issues with brush marks, I opted to use the roll/roll method.  I have put down 3 coats on the raised cabin and part of the extended stern in preparation for the boat arch.  Its a toss up.  When I used the roll / tip method, I think I got a smoother finish, but with slight brush marks.  With the roll / roll method I got a slight texture, but no brush marks.  I think for the raised cabin, I am going to live with it.  As the title says, it passes the 5 foot test (looks good from 5 feet away).  I want to put one more coat of paint on the raised cabin and then I will install the windows and hatches.  I will experiment one more time with the brush on the next level down.  I really want the topsides to look better than the results I am getting now.

I took these photos a little late in the day.

This shot is to show the tarp I added to shield the sun to allow the paint to cure a little slower and have a better chance to level out.

Five Foot Test?

The original cabin roof will get a coat of non-skid.










Decided to tackle another project, while the paint dries.  I started building the chase for the electrical and motor control cables.

I tabbed two pieces of wood to the fiberglass since there is no other way to fasten it.  Then added a piece of 1/2" plywood.

Here is the strip of wood tabbed to the fiberglass.   You can see the patch job of the holes I filled in the gunwale.

This will all get covered with a thin piece of material from the top to bottom and ultimately covered with foam backed vinyl.

Another view looking straight on.

This shot shows after I added a second piece of plywood "floor".   This will all get boxed in.  I just want to be able to easily remove to get access as necessary.

Right now, it houses the two steering cables, 4 outboard throttle/gear cables, and 2 outboard cables for the electric starter.
I will also need to accommodate 2 battery cables and some small gauge wires for stern light, etc.  The existing small chase is still usable for the smaller wires.


Oh almost forgot.  I ordered 4 more quarts of Interlux Perfection.  I was shocked when the paint arrived as the color was Oyster White, not Snow White.  Evidently I checked the wrong box, when I placed the order on-line.  What is ironic, is that I had been contemplating changing the color, because the Snow White, was just too glaring.  Possibly a sub-conscience thing.  I used it for the last 3 coats, and I like it!  You really have to put the two colors side by side to tell the difference.  Three day weekend coming up.  Hope to keep making progress.

Interlux Perfection is Kicking my....

I am not getting good results with Interlux Perfection.  I am using a pretty decent brush (Corona, but not badger hair) with mixed results, none of which are stellar.  I have read were some have had good success with just rolling and no tipping.  This is done with a very thin coat and a high density foam roller, which is what I have been using.  One thing I have not been doing is wiping down the surface with a solvent and I have also been applying in direct sunlight.  My next go round, I am going to do that differently and see what happens.  I really need to perfect this before I move on to the topsides!

Here is a picture of my 2 port holes that I removed to clean up and in preparation for painting.

I wish I had taken a "before" picture.  This is the side that was protected from the elements, but they definitely needed a good cleaning.

This is what I used to clean them up.  I think the port holes are actually chrome plated and not stainless, but this did the job.

Unfortunately, these are the outside part of the frames that were exposed to the elements and could not be revived.

I will look into the cost to chrome plate them.

While I was at it, I decided to clean up the stanchions. This picture is with the cleaner on.

Here is the steering wheel I just bought on ebay.  I decided to take it apart and clean as well.  The teak accents will get varnish when I get around to that part of the job.

First Coat of Interlux Perfection

Yesterday, I applied my first coat of Interlux Perfection (Snow White).  This was my first time using the 2-Part paint.  The paint delivers a high gloss finish, but I decided that I did not want to draw attention to any imperfections, so I mixed it with the flattening agent at 1:1.   This ratio is supposed to result in a semi-gloss finish.

I think this ratio thinned the paint out as the coverage was fairly transparent.  Looks like it will take 3 coats.  I used the roll and tip method using a high density roller.  Not sure if I am pleased with the brush marks, I "think" I see, but again it is hard to tell given the transparency of the paint.

Not much to see in the pictures, but wanted to show my progress.  This is after sanding in preparation for the second coat.  I think I am going to cut the flattening agent in half on the next coat to get better coverage.  I will apply the non-skid on the third coat.  It was overcast this weekend, so I can't really gauge the gloss factor.  I can adjust on the 3rd coat.

The 3 lids for the stern extension.  I think I will be happy with these, once I put the non-skid coat.

By the way, I keep forgetting to mention that if you click on the pictures, you will be able to see them better.

I am happy with the "join" to the stern. It is pretty seamless.  I had some extra paint, so I extended into the cockpit.

You can see the fairing mix still visible after the first coat.

Extended the paint to the original roof. My goal is to finish this area and install the windows and then move down from there.

Close up of helm station.

Not much to say.  I think it is going to turn out pretty good.  I keep reminding myself that the guy on the video said not to be too expect great results with the first coat.  It gets better after the 2nd and 3rd.

Top of cabin roof.  The forward 2/3 will receive non-skid, while the aft 1/3 portion will not.  I want to discourage any walking on the aft portion.

Here is a shot of the stern extension area after I applied a primer coat and sanded down with 220 grit.  There are quite a few pin holes.  I just ordered some surfacing putty.  I am going to try some of that to fill in the pin holes, instead of mixing a batch or resin.

Here are the 2 holes from the bathroom filled in, primed and sanded.

I decided to prime and paint the frames of the 2 ports that will go on the new roof.  They were used and showing signs of paint fading.  I used an etching primer and several light coats of semi-gloss enamel.   Not sure if I will do the same for the original window frames.  I will be removing them and "rebuilding" them, so I may end up having them powder coated black, once I check on the price.  I am thinking that would last longer than etch prime and paint.

Here is the corner of my office.  This is all of the stuff that is just waiting to get installed. Electronics, ports, helm chair.  The big roll is the headliner.  I will actually be using it for the sides walls.  My plan is to use a PVC bead board material to line the roofs.

Didn't Know I had Lightning Protection

I was never quite sure what that strange copper ribbon or foil was that ran from aft to forward.  My original thought was that it was some sort of ground.  After discussion on Iroquois FB page, it became clear that it was a lightning protection system that transfers the lightning strike from the mast, down the shrouds to a ground plate located on the bottom of the hulls.  You will see in this video that I didn't even know the ground plate was there until today.  Mystery solved!

A fellow Iroquois Facebooker proved this great link that explains the different grounding systems.  Thought I would pass it on.

http://www.sailmail.com/grounds.htm

Enjoy!