This and That

Worked a lot on the boat this past week, but don't feel like I made any major accomplishments, more like a lot of small ones!

This is after the first coat of bilgekote.  I ran out so I went to West Marine to get a gallon and they did not have it in stock, so I had them order it.  Did a price match from Defender and was told that WM would stop doing that on March 1.   Oh well, guess I will be ordering on line.  Need 2 more coats.

I decided to drill a 7/8" hole in the "joists" to feed my 1/2" water hose through.  Most would just lay the hose on the bottom, but not me!

The berth storage areas have had 3 coats of paint, so I decided to dry fit the water tanks.  By the way, these are 10 gallons.  I previously stated they were 9 gallons.  This is the forward port berth area.

This is the aft port berth area.  I will need to secure them in place once all of the hoses are attached

Decided to move to the starboard side and start the same process of prepping for plumbing.  I found the same lifting rings.  You can see the 2 on either side of the threshold to the starboard berth area.

Here is the rest of the floor removed.

I also decided to start prepping for the primer coat on the new fiberglass and deck.  So I started unbolting everything off of the deck.  Here is a shot of one of the cleats I removed.  I had my eye on some nice shiny SS cleats, but opted to save my money and just clean these aluminum ones up with my dremel.

Since I am getting close to putting a primer coat on the deck, I decided I better start sanding the teak rub rail now.  Also in this picture you can see the area where the extended hull was added by the factory.  I have expanded the fairing to a wider swath and honestly I could go even wider, but it is subtle enough.

A close up of the same area.  I finished the port side today.  It went fairly quickly with my orbital sander, but had to do touch up some areas by hand.

This is a shot looking down on the teak rub rail about mid way, where the factory joined 2 pieces together.  A gap has developed over time and can't just be sanded out.

What to do?

This is looking straight on from the side.  I decided to mix some catalyzed resin with some "sawdust" of the teak, collected from my orbital sander filter.

I tried to push as much as I could in the crack from all sides.  The screw and washer is used to close the gap.  If you look closely, you can see the resin mix oozing out.  I will let it sit for a few days and then remove the screw to see if it holds.  If not, Plan B?




Update: 3/3/13

Removed screw/washer and sanded down.

The epoxy mix held!  Left quite a noticeable mark, thought.  Sawdust didn't quite do it.  Need to think what I can do to make that less noticeable.