On Saturday, I stained the plywood. I ended up letting the first coat dry. There were some spots where the grain was too noticeable across a wide area, so in order to try an replicate individual planks, I added another coat. This time, I used a crumbled piece of paper towel and pulled the stain to try and add some linear effects. I think I like it okay.
This photo is of the sole for the port an starboard hulls, except for the small piece at the top. It is the piece that will go just starboard of the main cabin sole, leading to the starboard hull.
This is the main cabin sole.
On Saturday and Sunday, I added 4 coats of polyurethane to the back and sides of all of the pieces.
This is my test piece to see how the poly would look. My biggest concern was that the pin stripe would stay white. The poly is oil based and after 4 coats, the pin stripe is discernibly yellowish, which is what I wanted, although this photo does not show it.
Monday morning, I sanded all of the pieces with a 400 grit sandpaper and started applying the pin striping. I ordered 150 feet of pin striping. After finishing the main cabin sole, pictured, it was obvious that I would not have enough pin striping for the rest of the pieces. It took me over an hour to lay these down. I got about half way through with the sole that goes below the settee, when I ran out of pin striping! This screwed up my whole game plan for the sole.
Because, I am using oil-based poly, you can only do 2 coats in a day. Right now I have it timed to coat at 7:00 am and 4:00 pm. This gives the recommended 8-10 hours of dry time between coats, but does not need to be sanded, because its 15 hours or less between the 2nd coat of the day and the 1st coat the next morning.
This is after 5 coats of semi-gloss poly, which I think I am going to stick with to offset the rest of the wood in the cabin, which is gloss. I am going to do 5 more coats over the next few days. I will have to wait until Christmas week to poly the remaining pieces.
While, the poly was drying, I started the plumbing. This photo shows the new location of the water fill. There is one similar on the starboard side as well. I know Iroquois were built primarily as racers, but this location just seems a lot more appropriate.
This is the water tank in the port forward berth area. It will primarily be empty and used as a secondary tank for trips to Catalina. There is no deck fill tube. I will open the valve and let the water equalize as I fill the primary tank and then close the valve until I need the water. That way I have a reserve. I just need to add an air relief vent.
This photo shows the 1/2" tube connection running from forward to aft tanks. I will tee off of this tube to supply water for the head sink. I will be reusing the pump that was installed by the PO, so I can have a hand shower. At this point, I think that I will put the bilge pump in the recessed area in the head.
This photo also shows some added stingers to better support the sole. I still may need to double up on the plywood, but that is okay, I have enough left over.
I also started building the support for the waste tank. The ledgers on the bottom will support the 3/8" plywood floor for the tank. I will add a strip of plywood to the floor to give it some rigidity. I also have a piece of aluminum tubing that will also add to bridge fore and aft.
The top piece is to provide a place to strap the top of the tank.
Today, I tabbed in the ledgers. The piece on the left is screwed into the wall with a backing strip on the other side, which is in the berth cabinet. The top strip, not shown, also got tabbed in as well.
Here is a shot with the tank in place. The 1.5" intake is upper aft. The tube, top forward will be used for the air vent. There is a 1.5" port on the bottom right. This will eventually all get closed in with a removable face, once all of the plumbing is complete.
The tank was another Minney's purchase for $18 and I estimate is about 9 gallons. I was looking at a new tank, which was going to cost over $100.
In anticipation of laying down the cabin sole, I decided to run the electrical/wiring. This photo is looking aft toward the electrical cabinet. On the left is the starboard bilge hot wire and a duplex wire for the refrigerator. I am just going to use the ground from the duplex for the bilge, since is oversized. I also ran the cable for the tri-ducer and depth transducer.
On the right is the 110V romex that will feed power to the forward part of the hulls.
This photo is looking forward, under the settee table. The wires/cables run inside the cubby and through the settee seats to the corresponding hulls. I think I am also going to add some pull lines before I put the sole down to make it easier to add more wires in the future.
This shot is in the starboard hull, near the forward berth, showing the wires coming out and down into the locker. I am going to put a (+) and (-) bus here. The duplex is 8 ga. and the refrigerator takes 10 ga.. I was originally going to put the buses in the locker, but both electrical wires came up short. This was not my original path of travel, when I cut the wires a few months ago. I will eventually cover this gap between the cubby and the refrigerator so you don't see the wires.
This is a shot of the transducer wires leading into the locker. I discovered that the thru hull from the previous depth ducer was not compatible with the new triducer. If you are following closely, you are wondering why I have a tri-ducer (depth, speed, temperature) and a separate depth transducer. The Raymarine depth and speed gauges I purchased are older ST60 and so the triducer was purchased to be compatible. I also purchased a Raymarine DSM 250 Depth/Sonar to feed to the Raymarine Chartplotter. Since I am not sure if the triducer will provide the correct information, I went ahead and purchased a separate depth gauge that I know is compatible. Not sure if I will need it, but just easier to install now. Plus the triducer is angled off to the side, so it will be interesting to see how accurate a depth it reports.
This photo shows the 110V romex in the port forward cubby, coming from the settee area. I will install an outlet here and continue the romex to the head.
This is the same cubby, taken a couple feet back. The romex will be attached to the shelf above, so it will not be visible.
The romex will then be attached under the top step and into the head.
Its been a busy few days. Celebrating Thanksgiving tomorrow, but I will still get my 2 coats of poly done!
No comments:
Post a Comment